Penns Woods Winery - 1010 Saville Avenue Eddystone, PA 19022 Ph: 610.872.5320

Chaddsford Winery was picked for Best Portfolio of Wines, and its 2008 pinot grigio, one of four Chaddsford bottles in the case, was named as Best Value Wine.

Nine of the 12 wines chosen by me were placed in the case based on "best in category," and the remaining three were picked because of "special merit."

All wines in the case are current vintages being sold in the wineries' tasting rooms. Wines that were chosen for last year's 2008 Case of the Brandywine were not considered. Four such wines from last year -- Paradocx' viognier, Va La's "Mahogany" barbera-based blend and Penns Woods' pinot grigo and "Ameritage" reserve red blend -- are still being sold at those wineries.

An overall evaluation of the wines eligible for the 2009 case shows growing promise for the region as well as some nagging deficiencies. The top wines, including some that are bargain priced, continue to show improvement and can hold their own in blind tastings with similar wines from around the world. As the same time, several wines, both red and white, are light in flavor and intensity and lack structure. They are not poorly made, but they do not rise above being merely "pleasant." Part of this is due to over-cropping and other poor grape-growing methods, some economically driven, as well as inexperience in winemaking.

Overall, Chaddsford, Va La and Penns Woods showed the most consistent performance across their product lines. Paradocx is almost as solid. Its viogniers and chardonnays are almost always outstanding, and its reds are well-made if not as distinguished. To my mind, Kreutz Creek is the comeback winery of the year, making some very nice wines after hitting a rough patch with some of its production. Twin Brook produces probably the best value line of wines -- almost all are under $20 -- in the area, but it doesn't seem to want to go for "home run" wines. Stargazers makes very good sparkling wines and is now going through a vineyard renewal process that should bode well for continued good performance by the second-oldest winery in the area. Black Walnut, the new winery on the block, is off to a good start, although most of its "serious" wines are still in the cellar, waiting for release.

The two most intriguing wineries to watch at present are Chaddsford and Va La, which have contrasting business models and winemaking styles. Under the direction of co-owner and winemaker Anthony Vietri, Va La concentrates on small production of a few European-style wines, with the reds being tightly knit, sinewy yet fruity, and made with a predominance of Italian varietals. Eric Miller, co-owner and winemaker at the older and much larger Chaddsford, has the different strategy of producing a large variety of well-made wines. Most are more New World in style, with rounder flavors, yet are not fruit bombs.

The Chaddsford portfolio includes reds and whites made from grapes originating from Bordeaux, Burgundy and northern Italy, reds from the hybrid grape, Chambourcin, and sweeter table and dessert wines from classic vinifera, hybrid and native American grapes. Even wines that may have less appeal to those who prefer dry vinifera -- such as its sweeter Spring Wine blend and the grapey, aromatic niagara -- are still well made.

The one trend asserting itself this year is the rise in the number of wineries making rosé wines, from dry to lightly sweet. Most are well made.

For next year's 2010 News Journal Case of the Brandywine, a full 10 wineries will be eligible, as both Galer Estate and Patone Cellars -- which made wines from the 2008 vintage -- will be in production and distribution.

THE CASE

Bottle of the Year: 2005 VA LA "CEDAR" RED BLEND

Best Value Wine: 2007 CHADDSFORD PINOT GRIGIO

Best Overall Portfolio: CHADDSFORD WINERY

2007 CHADDSFORD PINOT NOIR (French style red, $15.99). Winemaker Eric Miller might argue the point, but this is probably the best pinot he has made -- light-bodied with gamy, cherry flavors in a classic Burgundian manner.

2007 PENNS WOODS CHARDONNAY (French style white, $35.50). Classic California style with lots of oak in the nose and on the palate with a lush, yet dry, creaminess and a long brulée finish with nice touches of pepperiness.

2005 VA LA "CEDAR" (Italian style red and Bottle of the Year, $45). A blend of nebbiolo and corvina, this is a lean and leathery wine with hints of toasted sorghum, lots of minerality and dusty tannins with some ripe cherries. Both whets the appetite and satisfies it.

2007 VA LA "LA PRIMA DONNA" (Italian style white, $35). Winemaker Anthony Vietri loves to tinker with a combo of Italian (mainly) and French grapes, and this vintage shows typical lush floral and fruit notes, yet is dry in the finish with savory spiciness at the edge. As complex as they come.

2008 CHADDSFORD ROSé (rosé, $14.99). Fruity and refreshing with a clean, dry finish. A blend of Bordeaux varietals plus chambourcin. Piquant cherries in a light body.

NV STARGAZERS BRUT TRADITIONAL (sparkling, $19). A food "champagne" if there ever was one -- a blend of tart fruitiness with a spritz of vegetable tonic in classic aperitif/digestif style made from chardonnay and pinot noir. Not for those looking for lush, fruity bubbles.

2005 KREUTZ CREEK ICE WINE (sweet table or dessert, $44.99/half bottle). Made from frozen cabernet franc grapes, this is a well-balanced blend of ripe peach nectar and minerally acidity. Full and luscious -- something to sip, not drink.

2006 TWIN BROOK CABERNET FRANC (red under $20, $18). A different take on cab franc, very ripe flavors of Bing cherries and dusty plums, leaning toward the pinot noir spectrum of tastes.

2007 CHADDSFORD PINOT GRIGIO (white under $20 and Best Value, $17.99). Beautiful herbal aromas and flavors -- spicy and grassy, much like a sauvignon blanc with some gewürztraminer thrown in for a touch of spice.

2007 CHADDSFORD "JANSEN" CHAMBOURCIN (special merit, $22.99). Chambourcin, a hybrid grape, here at its best with the cherry ripeness of merlot and the lean tangy flavors of cabernet sauvignon -- a lovely wine with floral notes of roses.

2007 BLACK WALNUT "BLANC FRANC" (special merit, $16). This is a playful little wine much like a vin gris with full rosé flavors -- rose petals, apple peels, orange rind -- and a touch of sweetness. The juice is taken off the cabernet franc skins before coloration.

NV PARADOCX "BARN RED" (special merit, $40.99 for double magnum, 4-bottle paint can). Nice juicy red with cherry flavors, great for everyday drinking and parties at about 10 bucks a bottle. Presented in a pail with a spigot, it will stay fresh in the refrigerator for at least a couple of weeks.

Twelve that rise above

Eight producers included on list that celebrates local winemaking

THE CASE